2:45 a.m. The world is still, except for the sounds of bears, bats, and badgers – and one dedicated human, Rick Dove. For decades, Rick has risen before the roosters, tending to grills, stirring gravy, frying bacon, and brewing that first pot of coffee. Town and Country Restaurant has been his second home, a testament to his unwavering commitment. However, change is on the horizon. From the first of June, Rick will retire, passing the torch to Jimmy Shifflett, the owner of Southern Kitchen Restaurant in New Market.
Rick started in the restaurant business with no previous experience. “I learned by watching,” he says. His first wife, Mary, who passed away several years ago, worked in food services most of her career, starting at the former Valley Delight restaurant and then moving to H & H restaurant in Timberville. She encouraged Rick to work with her, and he liked it so much that he eventually took over the business when the owners retired. Although H & H restaurant changed hands, customers didn’t have to wait for the new establishment to open. Rick says, “The old restaurant closed on Friday, and we opened it on Saturday.”
Rick says that one of the most significant changes he’s seen in the restaurant business over the years is the price of food. “There’s been a huge increase in what we have to pay. For example, bacon used to be around 10 dollars a slab; now it’s $33 – 40.” Egg prices have also increased; it can be pretty expensive when you cook, scramble, poach, or fry 12 – 15 dozen eggs daily.
Most local residents know Town and Country Restaurant is famous for its whopping pancakes. Those chunky breakfast treats came about by accident. Rick says he was asked to make a pancake one morning: “I’d never made a hotcake in my life. I poured the batter in the pan, and it came out huge!” Thus began the tradition of the Paul Bunyan-sized hotcakes.
Town and Country Restaurant is more than just a place to eat. It’s a hub of the community, hosting its own Breakfast Club. Many locals, including my husband, gather there regularly to savor the delicious food and catch up on the day’s news. The regulars don’t need menus—they already know their favorite breakfast dishes. The restaurant has also welcomed guests from all corners of the country, from Alaska to California.
Some of Rick’s most well-known lunch specials include country ham, meatloaf, and taco salad. Rick has a unique way of making the taco bowl–the bottom of a tomato juice can. “It’s the perfect size,” he says. Rick’s wife, Susan, says one reason she fell in love with him was his Reuben Sandwich! “Nobody makes a Reuben Sandwich like Rick!” she says.
Several local organizations meet regularly at Town and Country, including the Broadway Lions Club and the Rotary Club. The Broadway High School class of 1956 also meets there every three months.
Folks often ask Rick, “What are you going to do with your extra time?” He’s not concerned about boredom. His plans are as diverse as his menu. He’ll tend to his garden, cast his line for fishing, pursue his passion for hunting, and take his motorcycle for a spin. He’ll still visit Town and Country, but not at 2:45 a.m. He’s looking forward to sitting back and enjoying the experience as “just another customer.”
